Ohio Profile Edge
Review

by David Jones


I have been in the market for another 120 size Profile Fun Fly Plane ever since I lost my Aeroworks Extra Profile last year. I had considered another Aeroworks especially because of its flying characteristics but really wanted something with a wing tube rather than plywood wing joiners.

Then at Joe Nall this year, I had the pleasure of flying one of Ohio Model Planes new Profile Edges.
It was exactly what the doc ordered. It flew very light, had really big surfaces for wild 3D stuff, and tracked very well. It flew as well (maybe better) than my Aeroworks and was designed to be much sturdier particularly around the wing joiner.

Following is my experiences in the construction and flying of this model.

Wingspan: 80 5/8”

Wing Area: 1632 sq. in.

Fus. Length: 71”

Weight: +/- 11 lbs.

Engine: 1.4-1.8 2-strk, 1.80 4-strk, 30 cc gas

Engine used: OS160FX

Construction: Balsa, Ply, Laser Cut Parts, Foam Core Fuselage

The fuse is Balsa sheeted blue foam. The foam comes in three pieces which are joined during the sheeting process.
There is some prep work you will need to do to the foam before sheeting
Hardpoints are installed for hatches and servos. Also, I found the cutout for the servo wires to be awfully shallow for the three tail servos/connectors. I used my trusty Dremel with router attachment to increase the depth by an additional 3/16 inch.
Also rather than make a right angle turn from the top rear servo, I added a 45 degree channel for that lead.
The skins are made from 1/16 x 3 inch balsa sheeting. Edge glued, sanded and cut to shape. Be sure to follow the manuals suggestions to get the most milage out of your balsa.
I used Elmer's Pro-Bond PolyUrethene glue to join the foam and to adhere the sheeting. I did one side at a time, left side first. That way I could make the cut-outs for servos, engine rails, wing mounting dowels, etc. without having to hunt for them.
Use plenty of weight and let the Pro-Bond set overnight.
After the Probond sets trim and sand the excell balsa skin. Install the wing tube socket. The manual tells you to cut off a piece and install it. I found it easier to keep square by gluing one end of the entire length and then cutting it off after the glue dried.
Next the hardwood rails (engine mount) was installed and sanded flush with the balsa sheeting. Note the notch in the bottom rail. This will be needed with some throttle servo installations.
Once all the hardpoints are in the balsa end, top, and bottom cap pieces are added. I sprayed on a water and ammonia mix to get the balsa to bend around the rounded sections.
The front end is reinforced with plywood doublers.
All moving surfaces are stick built, truss type construction.
When installing the tail group, do whatever is necessary to insure that everything is straight and square.
The cutout for the stab was a little loose. I felt better reinforcing it with a piece of triangle stock on both sides at the bottom only.
The wing is standard, D-tube construction built directly over the plans. No surprises.
Top and bottom sheeting is made from the 1/16" sheets.
There was not enough material to make the rib cap strips. I made some from the scrap left over after trimming the wing sheeting.
The finished result is a nice, clean airframe.
Almost a shame to cover it.
I used a JR331 mini servo for the throttle. Placed here, it was a direct shot to the throttle arm. The engine chosen is an OS160 swinging a Zinger Pro 18x6. More on this later.
The fuel tank used is a Sullivan BT16 boat tank (part no. 390). This is a 16oz. tank that lay close to the fuse. Also note the composite main gear which is standard with this kit.
Hangar 9 servo arms and ball links on every servo.

Shown here is a little panel I made to mount the switch and charge receptacle on. I extended the channel for the aileron extentions up about 3 inchs and mounted the switch directly above. I check battery voltage before each flight, so I wanted the added accessibility.

No ailerons yet, but a first look at the almost finished product.
The bottom.
The finished machine. Charged and ready to fuel.
The big question. 10lb. 10oz. (dry) ready to fly. Not bad for 1638 squares.
About half way though the building process my friend James Bristle asked me to build one for him. He had his kit dropped shipped to my address. So what the heck, I gave him the first one and built the second for me. While we both flew his, I wanted to wait for mine before I offered any flight reports.
Time Out
 Time Out. While I build number two.
This is my Ohio GS540 #2. I used a different tail wheel assembly, Dave Brown foam wheels, and a little smaller battery pack and this one came in at 10lb 6oz.
Flying

 

This plane was exactly what I was looking for. The OS160 is a perfect match. It will easily pull vertical out of a tail slide. I won't go into all the cliches but picture this. Take off at 1/3 throttle, leave the ground in about 10 feet. Fly out 2 feet off the ground for about 30 ft. Do a wall...stop vertically at 10 ft. Hover for about 30 seconds and do an end-do. Hover a while and do another.

Hovering and end-do's are very easy. Spins and snaps need a little coaxing (the wing doesn't want to stall) but look pretty good if you do them "deep". Not Carden Extra 330 good, but good. Lomchevoks are exciting. This plane will truly go end over end. Slow flight and high alpha maneuvers are amazingly easy and slow. This plane is almost impossible to stall.

In summery, If you can fly a high wing trainer, you won't have a problem with this plane on low to moderate rates. If you want an all out aerobat and 3D machine that will be docile enough to try new things....this is it!!!! Regardless of your flying style, you can't help but enjoy flying this bird.

 
Geesh!!!
Time Out Again
 Tonight I start #3. This one will be for my friend Nelson Phillips
Disclaimer
 I am in no way sponsered or otherwise associated with OMP. I paid full price for my kits.
If you have questions about this review email me at rcflyer@coastalplanes.com


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